"Is not disease the rule of existence?... Now at midsummer, find me a perfect leaf or fruit."
–Henry David Thoreau
"Cured yesterday of my disease,
I died last night of my physician."
–Matthew Prior
The delicate shapes and colors of roses are unique among flowers of the world. For this reason, many believe that they are frail and readily predisposed to every pest and disease known to the garden. This is simply not so... roses are no more susceptible to garden problems than most other flowering shrubs.
Roses are tolerant, hardy plants, but a constant application of pesticides won’t make a healthy plant. Roses require the basics of sunlight, well prepared soil, water and fertilizer. Your mission (if you choose to accept it) is control, not elimination, of every pest and disease. Your questions to the Plant Man for the second week of June included...
Q. Plant Man, how do I get rid of the aphids on my roses?
A. The tender new growth and flowers of your roses are desirable targets for aphids. These soft bodied insects are easy to control by using a horticultural oil or an insecticidal soap product. For systemic control, use either Orthene or a rose care product that contains a systemic insecticide plus a balanced fertilizer
My rose is growing great leaves but I haven’t seen a flower yet.
A. Some rose varieties will concentrate their energies into growth the first year and flower little, especially if they have received heavy dosages of nitrogen. If your rose is an once-blooming variety it will not bloom the first year. Climbers are also not likely to bloom their first year.
Q. Plant Man. Is it o.k. to plant roses in pots?
A. Smaller roses that remain under 3 ft tall may be planted in 18 inch pots. Larger roses and climbers should be planted into 20 to 28 inch pots.
Q. My climbing roses never bloom although I prune them every spring.
A. Climbing roses bloom on old wood, rather than new growth, so I recommend only stripping leaves at pruning time.
Q. My rose leaves look like my grandmother’s old doilies, just like lacework. What’s up!
A. Lacework holes in rose leaves are classic caterpillar damage. Spray infested plants with either Orthene or Orthonex for immediate control. Or you may also control caterpillars with BT (Bacillus thuringiensis), which is a biological control and most effective while the caterpillars are small.
Q. Hi Plantman. What’s causing my rose leaves to wilt?
A. A number of different fungi may cut off the flow of nutrients and water throughout the stem, causing the leaves to wilt or yellow. They enter through a wound caused by the thorns or at a cut stem. Prune out infected canes and spray a fungicide containing chlorothalonil at 14 day intervals until control is achieved.
Q. I’m still getting mildew on my roses. Can I spray as needed?
A. Controlling mildew during warm, moist weather is nearly impossible. I recommend using Funginex at the first sign of a problem, but only at 7 to 10 day intervals to avoid damaging your plants.
In our quest to grow perfect roses, we provide them with well tended beds and prescribe a myriad of remedies... hopeful that our plants remain untouched by insect or disease. But even Catharine accepts an occasional imperfect leaf... she knows the alternative is curing all of the diseases but creating a toxic waste dump in her rose garden. See you next time.
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